No words

I visited the Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre today. No words can describe the feeling of being there. My heart feels for all Rwandans today. 

I am in awe

I didn't really get it until today. I didn't fathom how different Africa (or at least Rwanda) would be. And honestly, how much poorer it would be. This is a place unlike any I've ever seen. I am in the most affluent part of the country and yet the buildings and the infrastructure—roads, storm sewers, water supply—clearly show how little this country has in terms of money. And when you consider the country's poverty coupled with the horror and sorrow of the 1994 genocide in which a million people were killed, it's really a staggering set of obstacles to overcome. 

That said, what I am in awe of is the wondrous people who inhabit this place. The hard-working, kind, creative, curious, smiling people. The people going out of their way to host me, to help me, to entertain me, educate me, and feed me. The beautiful children playing around every corner, pausing to peek, smile and wave at me. God, I love these kids already. I want my kids to understand a teeny bit about these kids. I will be bringing back stories and hoping to do a bit of educating myself. 

I was fortunate to visit an amazing place this afternoon: Nziza Artworks and the Ivuka Arts Studio. The art studio complex is being run to help mentor young Rwandan artists toward successful careers, and also provides opportunities for genocide widows and their children to learn arts and crafts and make/sell art works to advance their income earning potential. Some of the art here is quite primitive (though we Leedys quite like primitive folk art already) and some of it quite impressive. I was fortunate to meet artist Innocent Nkurunziza, a painter who mentors younger artists and craftsmen. He's headed to the US in 2 weeks on a trip related to this studio, and in an amazing coincidence, may actually head to the Nike campus. I was also fortunate to meet several of the widows working on crafts, including 2 who'd made the lovely necklaces I purchased earlier in the shop. 

I don't have the proper words to describe how amazing this day was, and in particular, this visit to the Ivuka Arts studio. I'm hoping some pictures will do it justice. 

me

paintings done by genocide orphans 

Painting done by artist being mentored at the center

Innocent Nkurunziza

Widows making traditional necklaces for the shop

One of the amazing kids I have encountered

Tomorrow the actual market research begins. Let the learning continue!

e.

Things I learned about Rwanda in the first 60 minutes

I am in Rwanda. Woot! I'm at a very nice business-class hotel so I'm not getting anything close to an authentic African experience yet. But I will be headed out into Kigali tomorrow (with a guide...don't you go fretting about me walking around being unsafe). Oh, and I now believe it's pronounced "CHI-gall-ee" as opposed to "KI-gall-ee" but I will confirm this tomorrow. 

I arrived after sunset so I haven't gotten a good look at the landscape nor cityscape. That said, I did notice some things worth sharing. 

- People here walk. From the airplane, I could see rather large freeways with typical traffic, but stretched alongside the freeway in each direction, I could see lots of people walking. Where we might have a bike lane on the right-hand side, they seem to have a walk lane (or sidewalk, really). I talked to my hosts Janet and Dan, and they confirmed that most people walk places. Few can afford cars or even taxi rides. There are motorbike "taxis" that charge fares for rides as well. Just hop aboard! 

- Folks have been incredibly friendly. My lovely host Janet met me at the airport with a sign and a hug. First hug in Africa...I hope there are more of those. She was so happy I arrived safe and sound. When I told my guides it was my first trip to Africa, they were thrilled for me and my adventure, and were proud to share this country—this little bit of Africa—with me. I received a similarly warm reaction from the driver, the hotel desk staff, the bellman, etc. And Janet and Dan are taking me around the city tomorrow on a mini adventure. Thank you, kind locals. :-)

- It's difficult to get your hands on Rwandan Francs. I tried to exchange dollars for RWF in Portland. No dice. Tried again in Brussels and at the Kigali airport. Nope and nope. I will have to crack this code tomorrow. On the plus side, there are ATMs that seem to be taking V/MC and dispensing cash. So all is not lost. 

- Mobile phones are huge in Rwanda. In the airport terminal, there are lots of ads related to phone coverage, minutes, SIM cards, and the like. There are also lots of ads related to payment cards, ATMs, and banks. Theoretically, if someone were in Rwanda to do research on mobile phones and payments, someone would be feeling pretty good right about now.  Oh, and my hosts were encouraging me to get a local phone for communication while I'm here ("so you don't have to use roaming"). Not sure I'll do this, but it's interesting how easy it might be to do so. 

Tomorrow I will head out to see, experience and learn more. Until then, sweet dreams, my American friends/family/loved ones/random strangers reading my blog.

e.